Micropigmentation Needles - Size, Taper, Count & Configuration: The Ultimate Guide
Article by Gemma Hutchings | Date Published 4th July 2024
Micropigmentation Needle Knowledge
This guide covers the topic of micropigmentation/PMU needles and what to consider when choosing the right needle for optimal outcomes.
There are various needle configurations available for different treatment options. While specialised courses provide detailed information on the appropriate needle configurations for specific treatments, the following information offers a general overview of four essential factors: needle size, needle taper, needle count, and needle configuration.
Table of Content
It is imperative that whatever needle you use and whether you consider yourself a micropigmentation practitioner or tattooist artist, you are using safe needles. Safe means that the needle are steralised and have an internal membrane that stops pigment or bodily fluids from going back into your handpiece and causing cross-contamination.
The membrane is a small component housed inside the needle cartridge which creates a seal or barrier between the cartridge and the device. By using needles without this membrane you are risking cross-contamination of bodily fluids penetrating the internals of your handpiece. When you change your needle for your next client, that fluid it transferred back into the new needle and to your new client.
Some brands choose to make their barrier with a metal spring instead, which does not work in the same way and will not prevent backflow.
The diameter of a needle is the measurement of the width of the needle. If it is a group of needles, then it refers to the measurement of each individual needle.
Needles with larger diameters are usually better suited for shading work. That’s because they have a much freer pigment flow. Whereas needles with a smaller diameter are more effective for more intricate work and on less fragile skin.
Finer needles (with diameter of 0.18 needle) allow you to build up more layers by putting less pigment into the skin with each pass. This leads to smoother blends. But, because they distribute less ink, you will need to slow down your hand speed.
Larger needles (with a diameter of 0.4) distribute more pigment, allowing you to pack pigment into the skin faster. However, because each needle in the configuration is larger, they will cause more trauma to the skin with each pass.
Now just to baffle you further there are 2 ways in which diameter is shown on a box of needles. Either the measurement of the diameter, as shown in the image, so 0.18mm or 0.3mm for example, however this can also be represented another way, by a numbering system.
0.18mm (#5)
0.20mm (#6)
0.22mm (#7)
0.25mm (#8)
0.30mm (#10)
0.35mm (#12)
0.40mm (#13)
Finishing Touches Needles are described by their measurement.
The needle taper is the length of the needle tip. It can be measured by the reduction in diameter from the widest point of the needle diameter to the thinnest point - the tip.
Short Taper
Short taper lengths have an abrupt narrowing from the body of the needle to the tip of the needle.
• Delivers good colour, more quickly
• Can cause more trauma to your clients’ skin
• Great for colour fill for SMP, areola, lips and eyeliner
Medium Taper
Medium taper has a more gradual narrowing from the body to the tip.
• Delivers a moderate amount of colour
• Causes a moderate trauma to your clients’ skin
• Great for shading - areola, ombre and skin camouflage and ombre
Long Taper
Long taper lengths offer is the longest and most gradual narrowing from body to tip.
• Less colour (slow colour building)
• Less trauma to your clients’ skin
• Ideal for intricate work such as hair stroke brows
This one is simple - it is the amount of needles present. For example a 4 flat needle has 4 needles and a 3 micro has 3 needles
Configuration or type refers to how the needles are arranged or grouped together. Different arrangements have dramatically different effects on your client’s skin. So, let’s take a look at each available configuration:
Single Needles
One single needle used to create a single line.
Round / Liner Needles
These come in various sizes – eg. groups of 3, 5 or 7 and are multi-purpose. Ideal for lining and therefore great for lips and eyeliner. They are also the prefect needle for SMP in a 3 configuration. The tighter the configuration the better for leaving a "lasting impression"
Shader Needles
These also come in various sizes – eg. groups of 3, 5 or 7 and pack in pigment. Areola tecnicians love this formation of needles are they achieve a soft-shaded effect. Also great for lips too.
Magnum Needles
Also great for packing in colour. This formation is normally in 2 rows of high count needles grouped together such as 5, 7 and 9.
Curved Magnum Needles
As above but the rows of needles have a curve to them, great when working with a natural curve such as a lip treatment.
Flat Needles
Most commonly used for lining and shading. Flat needles are grouped together in a flat, straight line. Since flat needles are so precise and straight, they’re perfect for hair stroke brows however you may also choose flat needles over round liners for lipliner and areola.
Sloped Needles
Sloped needles run at an angle and are ideal for implanting a fine line or shading. Very much the same way as the flat needles, the needles need to enter the skin at the same time so the handpiece needs to be at an angle of 45 degrees. Can also be used on its side to blush or shade.
Nano Needles
Flexible single needles that can be used for lining and shading. Perfect for scaring, pixelation and ultra-realistic hair strokes.
When you are faced with a box of needles labels for example 0603RL - ST it is easy to see why this would be confusing. It's actually quite easy when you know how.
The 1st two number relates to the diameter
The 2nd two number relates to the needle count
The 1st two letters refer to the configuration.
And the 2nd two to the taper
So in this instance its a 0.2 diameter 3 round liner needle with a short taper! Simple right!
Embracing Change: The Next Chapter for FTG
Navigating Micropigmentation Practice Skin: Options and Expert Tips
Can a patient undergoing chemotherapy or radiotherapy have micropigmentation?
Buy 2 get 1 FREE - August Pigment Sale
Empowering Burn Survivors: Training and Support through Dan's Fund for Burns
Mastering Semi-Permanent Makeup for Redheads: Pain Relief and Pigment Perfection
